Wednesday, July 22, 2020

6/15/2011 Kalambaka/Divani Meteora Hotel, Meteora-Agios Nikolas Anapafsas/Agios Stephanos/Agia Triada/Varlaam/Great Meteoron, dinner at our hotel restaurant

Breakfast buffet.  Scrambled eggs, croissant, orange juice, coffee.  A long day today and it's raining off and on.  Unfortunately it appears I forgot to take any pictures of the breakfast we had or of the items in the buffet.





AGIOS NIKOLAS ANAPAFSAS.  Leaving Kalambaka and Kastraki (small village just past Kalambaka) driving uphill the first monastery you see on the left is this one.  Perched on the top of the vast rock whose summit is of a small surface area.  A short climb and a few steps carved into the rock bring us to the entrance.  The limited space meant that the buildings were constructed at various levels.  A chapel dedicated to Saint Anthony is on the lowest floor.  It's very small with room for only one priest.  The church of Saint Nicholas is on the first floor.  Decorated with fine wall paintings-long and narrow.  Illuminated almost exclusively by candle-light.  On the second floor is the old refectory used now as a reception room, the small church of Saint John the Forerunner, and the ossuary in which many monks' skulls are stored.  The wall paintings by Theophanis are as great as my research had suggested.  He was born around 1500 on Crete.  There he was taught religious painting.  Devotion to his religion had him become a monk.  All his masterpieces are found on mainland Greece.  The ones here are the only paintings that have his signature.  Others are unsigned.   Harmony of color.  Truly beautiful.   Admission 2€ per person.  We spent 1 1/2 hours here.   The views are magnificent.  Can see several of the other monasteries from here.

Admission ticket 






Early morning mist/fog













I think this may be Great Meteora 













Theophanis-Adam names the animals-from the book I bought

Theophanis-Saint Nicholas

Theophanis-interior of the church of Saint Nicholas Anapafsas






































AGIOS STEPHANOS.  Richest on the Meteora standing on an immense rock overlooking Kalambaka.  Located on the south side of the Meteora and is the most accessible of all the monasteries to visit.  A flourishing convent today.  The small chapel of Saint Stephan built in the 15th century in the eastern quarter has a nave entirely covered with fine wall paintings some in good condition, others show wear and tear.  Murals depicting full length figures of saints.  Carved into the floor of the church-double-headed eagle-patronage of Byzanatine emperors.  Refectory displays post Byzantine icons, rare manuscripts, carved wooden crosses.  The nuns here do important religious and social work such as instruction in Byzantine music and the writing of religious books.  Admission 2€ per person.  We spent one hour here.  Here is where I bought postcards, a magnet depicting an icon, a small Byzantine cross, and some incense made by the nuns of Saint Stephan's Monastery.

Admission ticket

As seen from Agios Nikolas Anapafsas






Postcard





Saint Charalambos with scenes of his martyrdom

The Royal Doors leading into the sanctuary

Christ of Pity-from the book I bought

Jesus Christ the Lifegiver-from the book I bought








































Icon image magnet I bought

Incense I bought

AGIA TRIADA.   The Holy Trinity.  Fantastic views.  In earlier times ladder or net was used for ascents but in 1925 the abbot Nikandor had the monks carve out 140 steps which led up to the monastery from a narrow footpath at its base.  Used in the James Bond film "For Your Eyes Only".  18th century wall paintings brothers Antonios and Nikollaos.  Admission 2€ per person.  Spent almost one hour here.


Admission ticket

 

Looking up to the monastery

Walking up the steps


















Going back down to the car

View to the monastery from the car


VARLAAM.  Mid 14th century hermit Varlaam climbed this rock, built a few cells, and a small chapel which he dedicated to the Three Hierarchs.  He lived here in seclusion until his death.  Buildings then became deserted until 2 brothers-monks Nektarios and Theophanis-early in the 16th century ascended this rock and began to rebuild the church of the Three Hierarchs.  Monks increased in number and then the brothers built a second church dedicated to All Saints in 1542.  Murals adorn the interior of the church.  Objects such as carved wooden crosses, icons, bishop's throne, and more are displayed in the refectory.  Admission is 2€ per person.  We spent a little over one hour here.  There's a food truck of sorts in the parking area.  I bought a cheese pie and a coke for 3€.  Richard didn't want anything.


Admission ticket








Entrance









  








Entrance to the museum





Postcard-Cloister of St. Varlaam Prayer 1566 AD

Christ in Glory-Varlaam Monastery-from book I bought

The Day of Judgement-Varlaam Monastery-from book I bought

Founders of Varlaam Monastery-From book I bought

GREAT METEORON.  Metamorphisis.  First church of the Transfiguration built on the highest rock.  Best known.  Founded by Athanasios the Meteorite 1392.  Serbian Emperor Symeon gave all his wealth and became a monk.  Richest and most powerful monastery.  Beautiful wall paintings and post Byzantine mural art.  Katholikon 12 sided dome-striking series of frescos by Theophanis which depict the persecution of Christians by Romans.  In former times ascent was by hanging ladders or a net in which visitors, supplies, etc. were hoisted up to the monastery with the help of a windlass.  However since 1923 a short tunnel and 146 steps cut into the rock have made the ascent a bit easier.  Admission 2€ per person.  Spent 1/1/2 hours here.
 
Admission ticket




























Postcard-General view of the west side of the Narthex (Lite), new Katholicon of the Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron, 1552

From the book I bought

From the book I bought

The Nativity-From the book I bought


Interior of the Katholikon-From the book I bought






Starting to rain again

Postcard


Decided to explore the town of Kalambaka some more.  Pick up laundry.  I bought a Greece souvenir hat-4.80€.  A Greek style shirt for Richard-18€.  Some stamps for postcards-3.75€.  Back at our hotel we start to pack as tomorrow we head back to Athens.  I take a nice, hot bubble bath to get the chill out.  Felt good!  Back to town looking for Meteora Restaurant but it's closed.  So back to our hotel for dinner.  In hindsight we should have driven to the near town Kastraki to check out if there were any places to have dinner. 




















DINNER.  At our hotel restaurant.  I got the appetizer plate which really was a cold plate.  It had ham, bologna, feta cheese, tomato slices, cucumber, tuna dip, tzatziki dip, cheese.  It was ok.  Richard made a better choice.  Mushroom soup and Greek salad.  We both got nestcafes/coffees to drink.  Cost without tip 31.0€.  I thought this was a bit high but............


Mushroom soup

Appetizer plate










































          

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